THE RELEVANT QUEER: One of America’s Most Iconic Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874

THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified9
J.C. Leyendecker in his studio, from Appleton’s Magazine, 1905. Ph: William van der Weyde

“All the men wanted to look like him. All the young ladies just plain wanted him.”-Arrow Collar Man

TRQ: J. C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874

One of America’s most iconic illustrators, Joseph Leyendecker was born in Montabaur, Germany. His family moved to Chicago when he was eight years old. There, at the age of fifteen, he took night classes at the Art Institute of Chicago while apprenticing with an engraver. Leyendecker began his career in advertising and illustrating books for the publishing industry. By the time he was nineteen, Leyendecker had mastered the technical skills of illustration. 

Together with his brother Francis, Leyendecker was admitted to study at the Académie Julien in Paris. The two brothers formed their own illustration studio after returning to Chicago in 1898. Within a year Leyendecker’s work made the cover of The Saturday Evening Post. By 1900, the brothers’ reputation spread through their work in illustrating for magazines and advertising, and the brothers moved to New York. 

Leyendecker’s covers for The Saturday Evening Post popularised the now iconic version of Santa Claus, and inspired Normal Rockwell, one of America’s most well-known painters. Leyendecker’s illustrations of The Arrow Collar Man were so well loved that the fictional mascot received fan mail. In The Great Gatsby, Daisy Buchanan references Leyendeckers’ Arrow Collar Man in her compliment to Gatsby: “You always look so cool. You resemble the advertisement of the man . . . you know, the advertisement of the man.” 

Both brothers were gay, and their style of illustration is homoerotic, though coded, and often portrays young men as handsome, athletically muscular working-class heroes in male- centric settings, referencing the ideal of the French Academy and style of Art Nouveau. 

The model for Leyendecker’s Arrow Collar Man was Charles Beach, whom he met in 1913. Beach, whose physical appearance impressed Leyendecker, became his model, lover and business manager for over forty-nine years. Through the Roaring Twenties, Leyendecker and Beach through one party after another in their home in New Rochelle, New York. 

Leyendecker died on July 25, 1951 in New Rochelle. Norman Rockwell was a pallbearer at his funeral. Beach died within months afterwards. 

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THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified21
Kuppenheimer 1920, illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker
THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified20
Arrow Collars and Shirts (teens and 20s) illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker.
THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified19
Kuppenheimer (1910, 1917, 1912) illustrated by J.C. Leyendecker.
THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified18
Kuppenheimer Clothing catalogue, illustration by J.C. Leyendecker, 1919-1920.
THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified17
Arrow shirt collar card, illustration by J.C. Leyendecker, c. 1914
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Leyendecker’s distinct cross-hatch style is seen in this 1911 painting for Cluett Dress shirts, featuring a particularly intimate gaze between two gentlemen.

THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified16

THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified14
Man Adjusting Sock study, c. 1920s
THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified13
The Saturday Evening Post cover, 1924

THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified12THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified11THE RELEVANT QUEER One of the Most Successful American Illustrators J.C. Leyendecker, Born March 23, 1874. www.imageamplified.com, Image Amplified10

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Sources:

GLBT Archives

Appletons Magazine

Queer Portraits

MONSIEUR: Ollie Edwards by Marcello Arena

FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHER: Levi Conely by Brian Jamie