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SCHIAPARELLI: The Extra Ordinary for Spring 2023 Collection
Schiaparelli delivered “The Extra Ordinary” for its Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection at the Paris Fashion Week and here are some highlights!
“Grabbing the world’s attention is easier than keeping it, as any old hand in fashion will tell you. But Roseberry is approaching the task well fortified, as a walk around today’s presentation demonstrated. The ready-to-wear’s backbone is tailoring—quite literally in the case of a jacket embellished with ribs, after a famous Elsa Schiaparelli skeleton dress suit circa 1938. Others are accessorized by the body-part baubles—eyes, noses, pierced nipples—that are Roseberry’s inventions and have become the identifying markers of the label. “The more extraordinary, the more luxurious, the more exquisite, the more people are inclined to buy,” Roseberry said of his suits.
The denim hews to the same more-is-more formula; the dusting of gold sequins across the backside of a pair of jeans, designed to look like sand on the bum, was especially inspired. An evening capsule was born from a summer holiday in Italy, where Roseberry saw women sunbathing in solid-colored swimsuits and big, bold jewelry. He re-created the look here via a brown halter dress suspended from a gold neck plate with a kiss in the middle, and a hooded dress in the brightest red silk jersey. There’s a direct line from Elsa’s skeleton suit through Yves Klein’s body paintings, which once inspired Phoebe Philo, to Roseberry’s own interpretations, painted in gold on an icy blue column. No schtick here. Just chic.” -Vogue
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